Daz Studio Lights Not Working

Daz Studio Lights Not Working 6,6/10 2647 votes

. I like the Daz Studio interface. It is fast, smooth, and intuitive. It did not take me very long at all to get comfortable with it. I like the Daz Studio lights. I am very much a newbie when it comes to lighting, but with some simple distant lights and the Uber Environment2 light, I was able to get nice looking scenes with very little effort. I just need to point my distant lights at the right place, and I am done.

No positioning needed! I will talk more about this later. I like the Daz Studio renderer.

It is quite fast and allows for rapid prototyping. I usually push down render quality and image size for my initial test shots, and then push them back up for the final shot. I like where Daz Studio is headed.

There have been a lot of cool features added into Daz Studio in recent times that allow for some great renders (sub-surface scattering, object instancing, subdivision surfaces, collision detection, and more). I mostly do figure based images, and that is where the Daz Studio system really shines.

From what I have read, it is weaker when it comes to environment based scenes. However, I think the future looks very bright. How to easily navigate through our Daz Studio content by using the smart content pane.The first step is to determine what we want to put in our image. For a start, putting in one figure is the simplest, so that is what we will do. One simple way to do this is to –1.

Click on the Actors, Wardrobe & Props tab on the top left corner of the interface.2. Make sure we have the Smart Content tab selected on the right of our content pane.3. This gives us a list of content objects that we currently have available.

Note, to get a full list of content objects, we want to make sure that we do not have any objects selected in our scene.We can see all the objects in our scene by looking at the right-most panel in our Daz Studio interface, and clicking on the Scene tab. For example, in the screen shot below, we have one object in our scene – the Genesis figure.Selected objects are highlighted in yellow. If we select the Genesis figure, note that the categories on the Smart Content pane to the left will shrink to only show those elements that are related to our selected object.Clicking on empty space on the Scene pane to the right will deselect all objects. Adding a figure using the Smart Content pane.At this point, we can simply go with our pre-loaded Genesis figure, or alternatively, we can delete it and add our own figure. To delete an object, simply select it in our Scene pane, and hit the Delete key.Daz Studio comes with the basic Genesis figures, and we can get additional figure morphs from the Daz Store. We can get to our available figures by clicking on the Figures category in our Smart Content pane. There are further sub-categories after that.

For example, in the screen-shot to the right, I have selected Figures People Female Real World and then I double click on the Olympia 6 actor to add it to my scene.For figures, I really like the and also characters by The on this article as well as the image below are examples of the Olympia 6 figure. Selecting clothing for our Olympia 6 figure from our Smart Content pane.To add clothing, I simply select my Olympia figure in the Scene pane to the right, and then select Wardrobe on my Smart Content pane.This will show me all the clothing items that are available for this character.Note that a big part of the power of the Genesis figure comes from its Auto-Fit tool. This tool is included in the Daz Studio installation and it allows us to fit clothing from older generation figures (e.g. Victoria 4) onto our new Olympia or Genesis 2 figure. This gives us access to a wide range of clothing items.We do not need to do anything with this now, but just keep it in mind for later when we start looking for a greater range of content. One of my very early renders with Daz Studio.

Single figure with a one click background environment by Stonemason (Streets of Asia 2). C) Adding an EnvironmentFor environments, you definitely want to check out His environments are not only great looking, but they are also very well created, so that navigation is smooth and rendering is fast in Daz Studio.Environments also usually categorized under the Environments option as well as under Props (look at Props Architecture or Props Landscape).Sometimes, clicking on an environment will cause it to want to over-write our existing scene. One interesting trick I discovered is to right click on the environment tile instead. This will open up a drop-down menu, and we can pick the Merge Into Scene option to merge our selected environment into our existing scene.Some people prefer to render the figure separately, and then combine it with various backgrounds later on, by using image manipulation software such as Photoshop or GIMP.Indeed, this was the process I used in the past because it allows for very rapid prototyping. However, it restricts the use of interesting camera angels, shadows, and lighting.

PosingTo pose a figure, simply1. Select the figure in the Scene panel on the right of our interface.2. Click on the Pose and Animate tab at the top3. Select the Poses By Function category in our Smart Content pane.4.

Double click on a pose tile to apply it to our selected figure.To zero out the pose of a figure,1. Select the figure in the Scene panel.2. Select Edit menu from the top of the Daz Studio interface.3. Then select Figure Zero Zero Figure Pose.There are also options for zeroing out the figure shape, or zeroing out only particular parts/items of the figure. Zeroing-out a figure pose removes all pose applications on.all. the elements/children within the figure.

Creating a new distant light.Distant lights have direction but no position, so they are very easy to use. The easiest way to understand a distant light is to consider sunlight. It has direction, but the sun is so far away, that for all intents and purposes, its light rays are parallel to each other from a given direction. That is what a distant light approximates – sunlight.To create a distant light, we go to the Create menu up top, and select New Distant Light.

Then, we simply change the direction of the distant light to illuminate different parts of our scene. Firstly, these tutorials are amazing. I am really new to Daz3D and having worked through the built in samples and user documentation I was looking for something to take me a bit further. Your tutorials fill that gap perfectly, please, please, please do more!Secondly, are there any tips you would have to help put characters onto other objects, like the cats here, or beds, or chairs etc. Mine just seem to look “perched” on them, rather than blending in. Either that or they are overlapping somewhere!

Thank you so very much Dawn. Sorry for the late reply, but had a difficult week with one of my pups.In terms of posing characters with objects, the key thing for me is to not be too afraid of collisions. When I sit on a chair, for example, my flesh gets pushed around some to conform to the chair. So when I pose my 3D figure, I make sure to set her down low enough that it looks like she is actually resting on the object surface, with a flatter (possibly with collision) rear and the right shadows. In contrast, a round rear will look more like she is floating on top of the object, because there is not enough contact and dispersion.You can possibly also use the smoothing+collision parameter to control for collisions or perhaps Zev’s rear morphs.

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I haven’t tried those tho, so not sure how well they work.Michael says.

Post-work in the Daz Studio context simply means the work done after rendering. This could be anything from repainting the entire picture, to simply adding a signature. Because the term is so nebulous, it sometimes gets attributed magical or nefarious properties. The truth is, there is nothing mystical about the post-work process. While it can contribute to the quality of an image, everything that comes before it, including composition, camera-work, and lighting will be just as or more significant.Depending on the artist, some things can be more effectively done in post, and some in We get to decide, which techniques best help us transform what we see in our heads onto paper.

Step-by-Step Daz Studio Iray Post-Work TutorialMy current Daz Studio Iray post-work process consists of 3 stages:. Stage 1 – Combine Iray light layers and fix rendering artifacts. Stage 2 – Soften, sharpen, glow, color, and contrast. Stage 3 – HDR filter.

We are currently using Color Efex Pro 4 from the Nik Collection. Available for freeAll three stages are performed in Photoshop, but depending on the look that I am going for, I sometimes skip Stage 3. We will be using the in our step by step post-work tutorial.

My recent images can be found. Add in a soft background layer and our 5 Iray rendered light layers. Add a soft image to provide an appropriate background.

Here, we used one of the photographs from Lady Kassie’s Oriental background set. We rendered 5 different light layers in Daz Studio Iray – Key, Fill, two Back Lights, and an Environment Map. For the Environment Map, we used the Tropical Ruins HDRi from We have Dome turned off, and saved the light layer as a PNG file. We add in our light layers using the process described in. The added gray Photo Filter layer on top of our IBL layer is used to darken our IBL image, so that it fits our background and composition.

By changing the gray color, we can lighten or darken our IBL layer. If we zoom in on our current image, we will notice that there are certain rendering artifacts.

In particular, the Asian woman’s hair collides with her thumb-nail. In addition, there is a missing pearl on the strand around her hand. Re-tone or recolor our image by using a Gradient Map adjustment layer, set to Violet, Orange color range. Turn off the Tint layer by clicking on the eye icon to the left of the layer. Select the Glow3 layer. Do Layer New Adjustment Layer Gradient Map.

Select the Gradient Map layer and pick the Violet,Orange color range in the Adjustments menu (see right). Set the blending mode of our Gradient Map layer to Screen and set opacity to 30%.We use the gradient map to retone/recolor our image. The Violet,Orange color range works well in in many cases, especially for realistic images. For fantasy pieces, I may use different colors in my gradient map. Create a copy of all our layers by doing Shift + Ctrl + Alt + E (Stamp Visible).

Select our new layer, name it Soften, and set blending mode to Soft Light. Go to Filter Blur Gaussian Blur. Set the radius according to the amount of softening that you want. Open our volumetric light file and paste it after our Soften layer. This is what our Photoshop layer stack looks like after adding the lighten and sharpen layers. Set the blending mode of the Lighten layer to Screen.

This will add the Environment Map light into our image. Adjust opacity to the level that we want. In this case I set it to 60%. Duplicate our new Environment Map layer (this time into the same document, which is the default).

Name this new layer Sharpen. Set the blending mode of this new layer to Soft Light and opacity to 100%.

Daz Studio Lights Not Working

Go to Filter Other High Pass. Set the radius to 5.0 pixels.This creates a sharpening layer from our Environment Map to bring back some of our image details.

We can further increase sharpening by setting the layer blend mode to Overlay. As usual, we can use the opacity dial to make more minor adjustments.After adding our lighten and and sharpen layers, our image is now brighter and has more detail. Add warm tint and a Vignette layer. Turn the visibility of the Tint layer back on by clicking on the check-box to the left. This will give a warm tint to our image.

We can control how warm our image is by changing the opacity of this layer. Select the Tint layer and do Layer New Layer.

This creates a new layer on top of our tint layer. Select our new layer and name it Vignette. Ctrl-A to select the entire layer and do Edit Fill. In the pop-up menu select Black as our fill color and make sure that opacity is set to 100%.

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Set the blend mode of our Vignette layer to Multiply and opacity to 30%. Do Layer Layer Mask Reveal All. Click on our mask layer to select it. Create a light area around the part of the image we want to highlight by using our Vignette layer. Click somewhere else on the screen to deselect our marquee. Do Filter Blur Gaussian Blur to soften out the edges of our circle. Duplicate our Vignette layer and set blend mode to Soft Light.

This finishes our Stage 2 process. As before, Copy our completed Stage 2 image (shown below) by doing Shift + Ctrl + C (Edit Copy Merged). Create a new file by doing Ctrl + N, and then Ctrl + V to paste our Stage 2 image into the new file. Our Detail Extractor layer with a mask for the areas we want to emphasize (e.g. Face). This adds a new Detail Extractor layer to our image file. We can then set the opacity of that layer to control the level of detail added.

In this case, I set the opacity to 30%. In addition, we may only want to add detail on certain parts of the image. To do this, select our Detail Extractor layer and do Layer Layer Mask Hide All. Then, paint in the areas where we want more detail.

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Also note that the Detail Extractor operation will lighten our image. To re-balance the layer so that it better matches the original Stage 2 image, we add a Levels adjustment layer ( Layer New Adjustment Layer Levels). Make sure to check Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask, so that the Levels adjustment only applies to our Detail Extractor layer.

Make sure to check Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask. Set the middle number in the Levels adjustments menu to 0.9.

This finishes our Stage 3 process.I do not always use the HDR filter. For this composition, I actually prefer the softer image, so I posted the finished Stage 2 image in In fact, this applies to all of the methods outlined above; we only apply them if they help to enhance our image. Experiment with opacity and adjustment settings to get the results that you want.Hope you enjoyed this step-by-step post-work tutorial. Hello there!As promised, here I am with my questions!

I hope they won’t make you do a face palm or exasperate you, but They need to be adressed, at least for my little head:1 – What is your render technique? It’s not about the lights, of your render settings (even though I’d be curious to know what they are in optimization&progressive render) but about your way to make your layers. I use canvases, set for each light in the scene (even the emissive like on luminowings or the SV muse textures for lilflame’s for the witchy sleeves, for exemple) set in – light group. Seeing your own layers, I was wondering how do you do it? Do you turn on and off the lights you want on a layers to render them progressivly?So to sum up, this first veeeery long question is: What is your technique to render in layers?2 – How do I render the environmental map? Is it simple the HDR? Or something else entirly?

I admit I’m a little lost in your tutos when you speak about environmental maps or IBL in your tutos, which is normal since the two are connected. Well it’s two in one, sorry! П˜€ Funny thing is your first answer kinda answers to the question I was asking my self “how to have my environmental map in layers?” xDI like Canvas, but I guess you could do canvas + rendering tone maping + environment like you usually do with the rest of the lights? Anyway, to have all the photoshop options, you’ll have to export the layers as.png in the end, so it doesn’t change much, except a gain of time, since rendering process can be soooooooooo long. I’ll try your method though!Thank you again for those answer, and I’ll definetely try what you explain in this answer you’ve linked. So much to learn, so little time!

(yes, I’m not patient and I’m a perfectionnist, the perfect mix to make my art practice complicated!).irfan says.

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